2012 Alaska (4/4): Talkeetna Mountains |
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Places | Alaska. Talkeetna Mountains |
Time & length | September 2012, 12 days |
Partners | solo trip |
In mid-September, when the first snow fell, I went on my last hike for this season. Starting in Eureka I went north, crossing several passes and rivers until I arrived at the Talkeetna River, where I put in my packraft. From there I wanted to raft all the way to the village of Talkeetna, but due to heavy floodings I had to fly out.
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At that time I didn’t know that there once was an Alaska Wilderness Classic Race with the same start and destination, but I’m sure the participants back then chose a much more direct route than what I had in mind. There are several options to make it from Eureka to Talkeetna – I was planning on a semicircle, doable in about 12 days. So I cut out some pages of my Alaska atlas (1:300.000) and hitchhiked to Eureka.
September 10 was a beautiful day after a long period of rain. The weather was supposed to stay like this for longer now, but I already had the feeling that it was going to rain very soon.
The first night it cooled down to -12°C, then I woke up the next morning under a blue sky.
I followed an ATV trail that goes north towards the Denali Highway, hunters use it a lot. In the first two days I saw a few of them, then I was alone. Anyhow, hiking on this trail under the warming sun of a beautiful autumn day was amazing. Look at the pictures!
In the morning of September 16 I reached the highest pass of this trip, something above 1500 m. Up there I found myself in deep snow, fog and cold. A few caribou passed by.
After paddling for two hours I searched for a place to camp and I saw a few little cabins on the left hand side of the river. It turned out that four men spent their summer vacation there, hunting and enjoying free time in the outdoors. They asked me to spend the night there, which I did, and since it didn’t stop raining the next two days either, I accepted their invitation to stay at their place for a couple more days. I had a wonderful time with these guys doing some hunting, cutting firewood, relaxing and also having a few drinks at night. A warm cabin, good food and interesting conversations was so much more pleasant than navigating through the rapids of a rising river in the rain.
In the morning of September 21 the water level reached its highest point – the whole valley was flooded. Using the satellite phone my hosts found out that they had to evacuate houses in the village of Talkeetna, the fire department was busy all over the place. I felt like I had got very unlucky this year – this was September, typically a relatively dry month in Alaska!
My friends in the camp asked me if I needed a fly-out and of course I accepted the offer. I guess nobody would float down this river in a packraft in such high water and with all the trees inside. It would have been ridiculous and after I almost drowned in Eureka Creek before I was not willing to do the same mistake twice.
When I was in the plane looking down on the river it became totally clear that flying out was the right decision. The rapids were enormous!
I was very fortunate to meet these 4 men at the upper Talkeetna River. It’s not just that I spent a couple of days with some very fine personalities or that they offered me a safe way out of there – they are also thinking of doing some commercial recreation projects in the area and are looking for a guide that could help them get their business going. We talked about their ideas for a while, later I met one of the guys again in Anchorage, finalizing some goals. I might get involved somehow.
At the end of September I left Alaska after 13 weeks. Again, I had a wonderful summer, just the weather was quite hard on me this time. I will be back next year doing more guiding – hopefully I will have a little more sunshine and a little less rain.
On my way home I felt the urge to spend some time in a warm and dry place as soon as possible. So right now, while I’m working on this travel report, I’m already making plans for a trip to Uganda – Karamoja – in February and March 2013. If that’s going to happen I will feel quite a climate change!